SIHH 2017 is just about at a close, and we have seen at least a few very enticing new releases. I’ll begin by sharing some of my favorites first, followed by a look back at some of the other interesting happenings in the watch world. And we shall start with a review of two Japanese heavyweights. I’m referring to Infiniti’s flagship SUV, the QX80, and Seiko’s high-end Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001 watch. How does Japan’s finest stack up against the rest of the world?
Moving on, we paid a visit to the small town of Oldenzaal, Netherlands, to Grönefeld. Helmed by Tim and Bart Grönefeld, who call themselves the horological brothers, Grönefeld is surely one of the most interesting independent Zenith Watches Vintage 1965 brands around today.
And finally, we cast a spotlight on Zenith. The brand recently underwent yet another management change with LVMH’s Head of Watchmaking, Jean-Claude Biver, taking over the reins as interim CEO. We wonder, what would it take to get Zenith back on top? What would you do if you were made CEO at Zenith?
1. F.P. Journe Vagabondage III Watch With First-Ever Digital Jumping-Seconds Display
I’m a big fan of F.P. Journe, and I couldn’t be happier with their biggest new release at SIHH this year. When people mention F.P. Journe, they don’t normally think about the Vagabondage watches, but I have always liked it for its unique case design and complications. For 2017, Journe revisits the Vagabondage and gives us the Vagabondage III, which has an all-digital display, not unlike A. Lange & Söhne’s Zeitwerk watches. However, it one-ups the Lange by sporting the first ever mechanical digital jumping seconds display. Check out this mega impressive Zenith Watches Uk Stockists here.
2. Panerai Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days Automatic Bronzo PAM 671 Watch Hands-On
I think it is fair to say that it was Panerai who started the entire bronze Zenith Watches Norwich craze when they released their first Bronzo, the PAM 382, in 2011. In 2013, they followed up with the PAM 507, which is essentially the same watch, but with an added power reserve indicator on the dial. Now, there is the PAM 671, which is really just a PAM 382 with a blue dial and newer, improved movement. But my, what a difference the blue dial makes. I’ll be surprised if Panerai doesn’t sell this one out quickly.
3. Car & Watch Review: Infiniti QX80 Limited SUV & Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001
The pairing of the Infiniti QX80 and Grand Seiko Spring Drive GMT SBGE001 is actually very apt. The QX80 is Infiniti’s flagship SUV, while Infiniti itself is Nissan’s luxury vehicle division. On the other hand, the Spring Drive GMT SBGE001 is one of Seiko’s most advanced watches, and Grand Seiko is, as we all know, Seiko’s line of high-end luxury watches. Oh, and Nissan and Seiko are both Japanese, of course.
4. Cartier Rotonde De Cartier Earth And Moon Watch Hands-On
Though it lacks unnecessary writing or a date complication, the tachymeter remained, in addition to the distinctive 3/6/9 lines around the minute sub-dial. Pursuing simplicity isalso, in our view, a fantastic thing, but left unchecked it could inevitably lead to some uselessly sterile dial. It must be balanced along with other layout goals.The dial itself needed to be equally understated yet possess a magical, dynamic character that prevents it from ever becoming dull. The best way to achieve that, we have found, is through a sunburst finish. A good sunburst finish, such as this one, almost disappears in a few light, appearing horizontal and non reflective, yet at additional light, usually more lead, it comes alive with vibrant, brighter colors. In these photos, using a white light box and absolutely even light, the dial comes off almost like silver, but in the majority of situations, it is a more considerable champagne, or as some have remarked, cream.The three little lines around the minute sub-dial, pointing to 3, 6 and 9, have definitely piqued your curiosity. This is a characteristic found not only on the A273 but on a number of classic Zeniths, and while it may appear gaudy, it had an extremely utilitarian nature. I’m told (I wasn’t alive at the opportunity to provide my own testimony) that these marked the intervals at which long-distance phone calls increased in price. Therefore, the chronograph complication could assist its owner in the rather mundane job of lessening his telephone costs.The blued hands along with champagne dial match one another, each making the other more vibrant and visible. Typically, we would use a single colour for a complication, such as most of chronograph hands being gloomy and all others being silver, however in keeping with all the A273, we picked for the 3 sub-dial hands and the seconds hand to become blued while the hour and minute hands are silver. It’s not the most logical layout, but it’s a very pleasing chromatic symmetry for it. Breaking with tradition, however, is the shape of the hands. The first A273 used sportier stick hands for hours and minutes, but we felt that the leaf-shaped hands better suited the dressy character that we were aiming for with the Classic Chronomaster Heritage Chronometer. Conversely, we added a brief counterbalance to the sub-dial hands since, being blue, they matched the similarly-shaped blued seconds hand, contributing a level of consistency.
Under the guidance of Carole Forestier-Kasapi, Cartier’s Director of Movement Creation, Cartier has established itself as a major player in haute horology. One of my favorite Cartier watches from recent times is the Rotonde De Cartier Earth and Moon Zenith Watches 2015 and this particular version in pink gold is especially delightful. I guess it is because of the meteorite dial, which is a very appropriate material for a watch with a moon phase complication. Speaking of which, the moon phase complication in this watch is really clever. It shows the moon phase on demand and it does so by swinging a second meteorite disc into position to obscure the tourbillon and indicate the phase of the moon.
5. Greubel Forsey Signature 1 Limited Edition Steel Blue For USA & Red Gold Watches Hands-On
Last year, Greubel Forsey debuted its most accessible watch yet, the Signature 1. It is a simple time-only watch, with no tourbillon and does not even show the date. However, it is finished to Greubel Forsey’s usual superlative standards and will be produced in very small numbers. Only 66 will be made and these 66 watches will be divided into 6 different variants. Here, we shall take a look at two variants. The first comes in a steel case and blue dial and will be exclusive to the United States, and the other comes in an 18k pink gold case and was seen in Dubai.
6. A Visit To The Grönefeld Watch Manufacture
Oldenzaal, Netherlands, is a small city close to the German border and home to just 32,000 people. It is one of the most improbable places to find a world-class Zenith Watches Norwich manufacture, but this is exactly where the Grönefeld watch manufacture is located. Run by two brothers, Tim and Bart Grönefeld, the brand, though young, already has a couple of Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve awards under its belt. Most recently, its 1941 Remontoire watch won the Men’s category at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Geneve. Take a look at their workshop here.
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