• Today is: Tuesday, November 19, 2019

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups
wristwatch
December01/ 2017

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups

Some Lange watches put me in actual pain, I need them so much. If a person has copyrighted that previously, have his attorney contact mine. Weirdly, the heavyweight horological muscle-flexer A. Lange & Söhne Tourbograph Perpetual ‘Pour Le Mérite’ is not such a Lange, and I have even managed to eventually determine why.Why? Exactly as it is a heavy weight horological muscle-flexer of a watch, a A. Lange & Sohne Datograph Watches that’s so overdone, its doping has enabled but a couple of small segments in the Lange DNA to survive such abusive treatment. In fact, we have seen the mix of a round case, perpetual calendar and moon phase in sub-dials, and a chronograph many times before. Many, many times, because that’s how really spoiled we are. The Tourbograph even shows some skin (beautiful skin, actually) at 6 o’clock to let you know not just with its own font choice and ever-so-slightly unique lugs that it is a Lange.I fully understand the value and the awe-inspiring goodness in the bespoke, not-copied-from-anyone-else engineering that is under the hood of this Tourbograph Perpetual, but we are not talking about an uncased motion here, however a complete watch. On this note, anyone who does not tingle in the sight of the motion should seek medical attention, fast! To take a more positive attitude to what unquestionably is a watchmaking masterpiece, we have to look at the myriads of nice details the Tourbograph offers.

First of all, the watch business is organised in such a manner that there are comparatively few genuinely powerful executives and managers, and controversy is avoided like the Black Death. This introduces two powerfully important issues. The first is that because there are a lot of individuals with a genuine state (or clearly thought-out way of measuring performance achievement) that there’s an abundance of discretion among a small number of individuals. This implies watch brands or bands in general are somewhat more organized like monarchies than contemporary organizations with appropriate conclusion authority.There are benefits to this strategy when you’ve got a strong, forward-thinking leader who’s able to reach success through the support of a trained team — keen to oblige his (and it is almost always a man) every whim. More frequently than not, nevertheless, such autocratic leaders are discriminated to run a watch business in an era when people buy watches as emotional treats you can wear and show off to the planet around you.Thus, too much discretion in the hands of too few individuals can cripple otherwise effective leaders from being accountable for narrow but specialized jobs that they can excel at. I genuinely believe that there was more of this in the past (Switzerland’s more or less socialist mentality to labor and decision-making would appear to indicate as much), and these days great thoughts are snuffed out or otherwise ignored due to mere incompetence — or even decision-makers who have unclear or incorrect goals given marketplace positions.Such thinking comes in a time once I’ve observed, year after year, good people at brands leaving, rather than being replaced by qualified people. It is incredibly sad. You may point out that there’s perhaps even more weakness one of the small independent brands who, with no corporate parents, are free to make whatever choices they enjoy. Further consider that a number of them are accountable for making a huge percentage of today’s best watches, and yet a good number are struggling financially. I would not disagree with this at the least, but I’d point to a much simpler reason why so many cool independent brands (of course, not all of them) are enduring despite apparently having products that are amazing.

SIHH 2014 has just concluded and in this round-up we will cover all the highlights from the show – including Panerai’s new vintage looking chronographs, A. Lange & Söhne’s mega “Terraluna” watch and Van Cleef & Arpels’ romantic Complication Poetique Midnight Planetarium. We also examine why we should rethink Chinese made watches and find out why our Editor-in-Chief Ariel does not have a favorite watch.

1. Panerai Radiomir 1940 Limited Edition Chronographs

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups

Every year at SIHH, Panerai releases a couple of limited edition watches and this year was no different. For 2014, Panerai introduced three new Radiomir chronograph watches using the 1940 Radiomir case. The highlight, however, is its retro-style dial and underneath it, the Panerai OP XXV caliber which is in fact based on Minerva 13-22 movement. I must admit that I was slightly taken aback when I first saw these watches, but I’m gradually warming up to them now.

Some Lange watches put me in real pain, I want them so much. If someone has copyrighted that previously, have his lawyer contact mine. Exactly because it is a heavy weight horological muscle-flexer of a watch, a A Lange & Sohne Watch Bands that’s so overdone, its doping has enabled but a couple of small sections in the Lange DNA to endure such intense treatment. In fact, we’ve seen the combination of a round instance, perpetual calendar and moon phase in sub-dials, along with a chronograph many times earlier. Many, many times, because that is how really spoiled we are. The Tourbograph even shows some skin (lovely skin, in fact) at 6 o’clock to allow you to know not only using its own font selection and ever-so-slightly unique lugs that it’s a Lange.I fully comprehend the value and the amazing goodness in the bespoke, not-copied-from-anyone-else engineering that’s under the hood of the Tourbograph Perpetual, but we are not speaking about an uncased motion here, but a complete watch. On that note, anyone who doesn’t tingle in the sight of this motion should seek medical attention, fast! To take a more positive attitude to what unquestionably is a watchmaking masterpiece, then we must look at the myriads of fine details the Tourbograph offers.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

2. Why There Is No Best Watch And How I Don’t Have A Favorite Timepiece

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups

Many are perplexed and puzzled when we say that there is no one best A Lange Sohne Watches Price brand and that, no, we do not have a favorite timepiece. Asking us to pick a favorite watch, one that we would gladly wear for the rest of our lives, is like asking which leg we would rather lose. There’s simply no answer. If you still have trouble understanding this concept, perhaps it is best that you read Ariel’s recent commentary.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

3. Van Cleef & Arpels Complication Poetique Midnight Planetarium Watch Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups

SIHH is over and one of my favorite pieces from the show is the Van Cleef & Arpel Complication Poetique Midnight Planetarium watch. It is a mouthful, but it is also a lot of watch, featuring a visually interesting planetarium complication and a perpetual calendar. Admittedly, it is not the most technically advanced watch and neither is it very legible, but the Complication Poetique Midnight Planetarium is proof that when it comes to watches, sometimes it is just the emotions that they evoke that counts.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

4. A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna” Watch Hands-On

These words are intended to poke in the stone-like facade of achievement that most luxury brands appear intent on both guarding and introducing to the outside world. The retailers and consumers that support you are keenly aware that things aren’t exactly bullish. So let us take a lesson in the diplomacy Switzerland is indeed often associated with and think about the worth of a group effort to help cure your watch business issues rather than displaying the exact same picture of unwavering success, every year, despite what logic and facts obviously appear to indicate regarding earnings.If I haven’t made my point abundantly clear, Switzerland: it’s time to give up total control and invite into certain help. You do make some pretty darn fantastic watches when you place your thoughts to it, together with organized factories and offices that are efficient. When it comes to understanding diverse market needs in addition to marketing communication, I recommend you entrust professionals for information that may know a bit more than you in these areas. It is not like they will suggest this so as to correct the industry you should quit making high-quality mechanical watches.Politics and conservatism are sexy issues these days, and the watch industry is no exception. I’ve further identified two regions that require serious reorganization or at least to be rethought: hiring great people who have clear goals, and making sure that conservatism does not always block actual innovations. By this, I mean a couple of things.

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups

As we have seen with all the Lange Double Split, there’s not one, but two column wheels at the movement. As you can see on the image above, this column wheel is directly connected to the 2 arms that control the splitting (or rattrapante) purpose: a few extremely finicky geometrics come to perform to prevent and let go of the wheel connected to one of the two central chronograph seconds hands. The other column across the movement (the one to the left to the image below) functions as a regular chronograph function’s column wheel, accountable for stopping and starting the chronograph itself.There are easy movements that amaze with their completing and there are not-so-amazingly finished complex movements that amaze with their overpowering layout. The Tourbograph merges both and produces a A.Lange & Sohne Tourbillon Watches that is a sensual overload using a window onto a world where magnificent surface decorations and treatments match with a few of the challenging geometrics and interactions of components.It is filigree and yet rocky in a way few movements with ~700 components are. Each of the components appear to have substantial quantity to them, almost begging the question why so many different moves we view incorporate fragile-looking little springs and cams inside their own design. The Tourbograph looks like a beautifully decorated machine which dwarfs other movements.Hidden deep inside the bowels of the L133.1 is a fusée and chain transmission system, designed to ensure a more even delivery of torque because the mainspring unwinds within its brief, 36-hour power book — 36 hours is indeed short, however a shorter than average power reserve is not exactly unusual among such outrageously complex movements.

After last year’s Grand Complication, everyone was expecting something special from A. Lange & Söhne, and the German manufacture did not disappoint. The star watch this year is undoubtedly the Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar “Terraluna”, which features a very unique orbital moon phase display that doubles up as a day/night indicator and can even be used to tell time in other countries.

With that said, still too many watches priced under $5,000 sense as though they had been created and approved by a committee. While there are exceptions, cheap parts and unrefined dial designs are somewhat more common than I’d like to admit. Though the psychological feeling a consumer gets when looking at the dial of an eye is the most important factor in making a purchase decision, far too many manufacturers appear to OK a computer layout for production, not realizing that in person that final watch will look much different. That usually means a picture of a dial may look good on a computer display, but in person with the incorrect materials, finishes, and colors, it may look like cheap crap. I really don’t know why this is, and I’m beginning to get unbelievably sick of hearing the explanation that if I visit a dial or other element I don’t like it is because it’s a prototype. If this is the case, then please stop showing me prototypes or place closing versions in our hands when they’re finalized and prepared to guarantee the aBlogtoWatch team doesn’t leave with very pessimistic feelings of what you as a watch manufacturer are trying to introduce to customers.Asia is still a huge market for your watch industry — that seems always comfy making products for said markets. Oddly enough, the same level of care and attention doesn’t go into many watches meant to appeal to Western markets. Is it possible that a massive quantity of painters and product people in the watch industry only forgot how to create watches (well, in sufficient number) that appeal to Americans and Europeans (that do not cost a bloody fortune)? I truly don’t know the answer to this — but I could say they are vanishingly small quantities of individuals who really love watches.In this and other articles, I really believe that I’ve pinpointed problems and provided some spot-on guidance the watch industry can use to cure its organizational, distribution, design, and earnings woes. Before going to our listing of the best 11 watches, I’d like to finish my essay on the situation of price. Yes, that amusing thing that many consumers seem obsessed over.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

5. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 42mm Watches New For 2014 Hands-On

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups

Fans of the Royal Oak Offshore can rejoice for this year Audemars Piguet unveiled no less than six new versions of this iconic sports chronograph – two in rose gold and four in stainless steel. The new models feature many enhancements such as ceramic pushers and crowns and something that fans have long cried out for, a sapphire display back. See more of them here.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

The A.Lange & Sohne Glashutte I/Sa Doppelfederhaus is powered by the caliber L051.1, a hand-wound, time-only movement using a Nivarox balance spring, German silver main plate and bridges, swan-neck regulator, and 55 hours of power reserve. As may be expected of Lange, the motion is finished into a superlative standard. All the decoration is done by hand.Like the chronograph sibling, I have a soft spot for your 1815 time-only. The addition of this hinged cuvette isn’t radical, but is a nice way to commemorate a milestone for the brand and its boutique. With such a small run, I’m sure the watches will locate a wrist (or secure) rather fast. The A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Dresden Boutique 10th Anniversary Edition watch ships on an alligator strap with a pin buckle and has a cost of $29,900 including VAT. A. Lange & Söhne’s Little Lange 1 Moon Phase embodies exactly what I love about women’s watches at this time. It is a smaller version of a men’s version — and that is a good thing, because it generally means a great motion, meticulous conclusion, and a dignified design, especially since you’re speaking about A. Lange & Söhne. When a business that makes something as magnificent as the Tourbograph Perpetual Pour le Mérite creates a girls’ view, it isn’t going to become a token sour watch with a lot of flowers but no actual functions. In addition, we have a new Saxonia girls watch in 35mm.

6. Top 10 Watches At SIHH 2014

BEST FROM: aBlogtoWatch & Friends January 31, 2014 ABTW Round-Ups

As a showcase of the Richemont group’s watch brands as well as others such as Audemars Piguet and Greubel Forsey, SIHH sees a mind-boggling number of new watch releases. Understandably, it can be difficult and tedious to keep up with all of the new watches. So for your convenience, here’s what we think are the top 10 most interesting watches at the show.

The tiny Lange 1 was first introduced in 2009, but includes a new movement, the manually-wound Caliber L121.2. The date is a big date, a signature feature on Lange’s men’s pieces. The moon phase is a welcome departure from the traditional blue and golden sky/moon color combination seen on men’s watches because the outset of time.The silver background with gold stars generates an alternate tone-on-tone dial composition which is more compatible than one broken by the bright blue. Add to this a guilloché pattern and you’ve got a balance of cosmetic and tasteful that many good watch brands don’t get right. Such as the men’s, using a Caliber L121.3, the moon period will need a correction each 122.6 decades. It includes a white alligator strap with a pink gold buckle buckle. The diameter is 36.8mm, which can be large, but not condescending as, say, a 26mm size would be. Not every woman has a very small wrist, and even when they do, they don’t necessarily want a little, dainty watch.Also fresh for women this year from A. Lange & Söhne is the Saxonia Ladies, a new 35mm size watch to get the collection. According to Lange, Saxonia stands for “the union of minimalistic layout with mechanical appeal,” which sounds about right as a description of this group. As a timeless watch, it has all of the ideal elements: applied gold baton hour mark with a dual baton set at 12 o’clock, classical instant trail, and slim hands.

Source: aBlogtoWatch

Next, our article picks from around the Web »