Continuing to flesh out their still-fresh CT60 collection, Tiffany & Co. has quietly released a few new gold versions of the modern yet classic-looking timepieces which make up the higher-end of the CT60 collection. This includes a new version of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph, as well as new versions of the most distinctive (and uncommon) Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar which currently tops out the CT60 collection for men.
I recently published my long-term review of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph watch here – which is a good survey of the concept behind Tiffany & Co.’s now-flagship watch collection, as well as my thoughts on the ownership and wearing experience. While intentionally conservative, I think the Tiffany & Co. CT60 family has the easy ability to grow on people, and I found it a more-than-capable and welcome daily wear for a range of situations. That, of course, was the steel model; in 18k gold, the character of this or any watch changes given the increased value and different type of potential owner that will choose a gold versus steel timepiece.
The first new model is an 18k rose with “blue soleil” dial version of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph. This is essentially the gold variation of the steel Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph that I reviewed. Tiffany & Co. doesn’t currently seem to offer it on a matching gold bracelet (though that might be sort of cool), and rather attaches it to a matching blue alligator strap. The 42mm-wide case contains a Swiss La Joux-Perret automatic chronograph movement and is water resistant to 100 meters, making it sporty enough for versatile wear.
The brand already had versions of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph in 18k rose gold, but this added blue dial offers an additional, attractive look that works well with the eye-pleasing blue dial which has become a favorite on the steel Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph models.
Tiffany calls for the hand-wound movement inside “in-house,” though it seems very similarly laid out to the ETA 7001. One major difference, obviously, is that it’s square, and also a view of this fills out the whole sapphire crystal screen caseback (sapphire up front too, naturally) of this Tiffany & Co.. Square watch. It is an attractive opinion, for sure, using a conventional finishing style appropriate for the watch all-around buttoned-up character. No word yet on its frequency, but the easy time-only movement has 17 jewels and a 42-hour energy reserve.Recent Tiffany & Co. watches have used sourced movements, but the New York-based company also has a very long history of creating watches in Switzerland – they opened a sizable watchmaking centre in Geneva at 1874 – and they recently spent in watchmaking with Swiss manufacturing facilities. Tiffany & Co. watches aren’t cheap to start with however, based on the 7001 or not, a push for “more in-house” means they’re planning more upmarket and for much more enthusiast recognition. Other famous jewelry manufacturers have very successfully moved into men’s mechanical watches and even haute horology, therefore that there are strong precedents for Tiffany to find out from.But one measure at a time. For the time being, their new Square watch is only available in 18k gold and as a limited run. The reference 61522514 Tiffany & Co.. Square watch is limited to 180 pieces for the brand’s 180th birthday, and also will have a price of $17,000 USD. It will be available at Tiffany & Co. stores from November 2017.
In addition to the new dial color for the 18k rose gold version of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph are new versions of the more limited-production Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar. You may recall that the entire CT60 watch collection was inspired by the design of a timepiece Tiffany & Co. had made for US President FDR in the 1940s. When Tiffany & Co. debuted the CT60 watch collection last year in 2015 (hands-on here), there was a limited edition model of the CT60 called the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar. With a cream dial, that previous limited edition model now gives way to one more limited edition, as well as an non-limited edition of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar.
The new “unlimited” model of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar comes in a 40mm-wide 18k rose gold case with a “black soleil” dial. The stately look of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar’s design has perhaps never looked better in this color combination (in my opinion), and given the more unique layout of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar, this is where Tiffany & Co.’s collection draws a lot of its visual character.
For the CT60 Annual Calendar watches, Tiffany & Co. uses a base Swiss automatic movement which has been modified and decorated by Dubois-Depraz. In addition to the time, the movement features a pointer-style date as well as a subdial for the month. It feels like a dial design which is common, yet this is a distinctive look for Tiffany & Co. At this price point, there is a lot of competition for annual calendar watches, but the legible, handsome looks of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar hopefully make a solid case for itself with fans of the design and the complication.
In addition to the non-limited 18k rose gold with black dial version of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar, there is a limited edition of 100 pieces 18k white gold version with a “gray soleil” dial that I think is quite fetching. Mostly monochromatic save for the red tip of the seconds hand, this “tuxedo piece” will prove an interesting model in the CT60 lineup. It also happens to be the only 18k white gold CT60 watch Tiffany & Co. currently produces, as far as I know. Price for the 18k rose gold Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph is $15,000. The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Annual Calendar in 18k rose gold price is $19,000, and the limited edition version in 18k white gold is $20,000. tiffany.com